The free sash is a flattened crown. It is easiest to knit, to which it bends and attaches shoots growing at an acute angle or towards the inter-row. You can also tie the shoots to wire pins or wooden pegs driven into the ground on the row axis, and shoots growing towards the inter-row bend vertically downwards and tied with string. These shoots will start bearing fruit earlier. The guide should be shortened throughout the formation of the lane, to achieve uniform sprout growth along its entire length. A common mistake is to leave flowers or – later – fruit buds on the guide. This leads to the loss of the vertical character of its growth. Most often it becomes one of the branches.
After all types of crowns are formed, the conductor is cut over the last lateral branch. Height, on which it will be cut depends on this, how tall is the tree to stay. The lowest trees are led in a free lane on dwarf rootstocks or with dwarfing inserts. Most often, cutting of fruit trees is carried out in February, March and April. However, for health reasons, some species need to be cut in summer. Stone trees, especially cherries, should be cut after harvesting the fruit. Then there is a lower risk of trees being infected by dangerous diseases, even causing them to die. In summer, it is recommended to remove the "wolves" (shoots emerging from the base of the boughs), which shade the fruit, they worsen their taste and reduce coloration. In the second half of June, when the "wolves" are not yet lignified, they can be torn off along with the base, then use the secateurs. Cutting of thicker branches is made with an orchard saw. Cutting tools must be well sharpened, so that the cut wound is smooth, as small as possible, and the rest of the tissues were undamaged.
For health reasons, lubricate larger wounds – preferably with ready-made Santar SM paste, funaben 3 or Funaben 4. You can also use white emulsion paint with an additive 2% Find out, Topsinu or Fundazolu (possibly the water-based paint itself). It is forbidden to use fruit ointment which not only does not protect the wound from infection, but it even creates better conditions for the growth of fungi, causing diseases of bark and wood.
The free sash is a flattened crown. It is easiest to knit, to which it bends and attaches shoots growing at an acute angle or towards the inter-row. You can also tie the shoots to wire pins or wooden pegs driven into the ground on the row axis, and shoots growing towards the inter-row bend vertically downwards and tied with string. These shoots will start bearing fruit earlier. The guide should be shortened throughout the formation of the lane, to achieve uniform sprout growth along its entire length. A common mistake is to leave flowers or – later – fruit buds on the guide. This leads to the loss of the vertical character of its growth. Most often it becomes one of the branches.
